Help your vehicle perform at its best by equipping it with genuine parts, and have such parts installed with a PerfectSoundz brake service.
Our brake supplies and parts have been specially engineered to provide superior braking performance and smoother stopping, while producing lower amounts of dust and a quieter ride. Since our brake pads match your vehicle’s original equipment quality, you’ll receive the same great performance you did the day you drove it off the lot, and your new parts will last longer than any generic alternative.
There is a difference in brake repair.
1. Test driven– Your vehicle is taken four a test ride to verify your problem. With a minimal brake job most don’t bother with a test drive.
2. Fluid is changed– Old, dirty brake fluid in the master cylinder is drained and replaced. Other garages don’t replace the contaminated brake fluid.
3. Rotors are measured and checked– Thickness variation of all the rotors is measured with a micrometer. Variations can cause brake pedal pulsation or the steering wheel to shake as the vehicle stops. The rotor vanes, or cooling fins, are checked for mud and rust. Clogged vanes could affect the rotors’ ability to remove heat from the brakes. This could lead to premature wear. Not every garage does this.
4. Fluid is replaced– The dirty brake fluid is drained. A special clamp is attached to the hose leading into the caliper before pushing in the caliper piston to remove the caliper. This prevents the remaining contaminated fluid in the caliper from flowing hack into your vehicle’s anti-lock braking system, which can easily damage that costly unit. Many force the piston in and push dirty fluid hack into the ABS unit.
5.Wheel hub is cleaned– Dirt and rust build-up is cleaned from the hub and the hardware is replaced. Not cleaning the hub can cause lateral run out. Others don’t take the time.
6. Each hub and rotor are inspected for lateral run out– A new or resurfaced rotor is checked for lateral run out when its attached to the hub. That’s when the rotor, while spinning, is not perpendicular to the wheel and it wobbles. It causes extra rotor wear and pedal pulsation
7. Parts are lubricated– All metal-to-metal parts are lubricated. Others don’t take the time.
8. Proper torque is used– The wheels are put back on, each torqued to the proper specifications. Many don’t torque at all.
9. Calipers are re-adjusted– Break pedal is gently pumped to get the calipers readjusted. Pumping too fast can damage the master cylinder.
Yes! Brake shoes are the curved, metal friction plates pressing against the inside of the brake drums to slow the wheels. While disc brake systems are more effective, drum brakes are cheap to manufacture (and therefore cheaper to replace). Many vehicles feature a drum brake system on the rear axles and let the disc brakes take on the real heat in the front. Learn how to replace brake shoes.
Absolutely!! The brake rotor is the heart of your braking system and should be closely examined while planning any brake pad replacement. The cardinal rule: use high quality brake rotors. Economy brake rotors simply don’t perform as well as premium brake rotors. They contain less metal, are likely to overheat faster, and warp more often. Plus, the lower-quality metal increases your stopping distances. You’ll replace them more often, which will completely wipe out the savings advantage you thought you were getting when you bought them. All in all, you’re better off replacing your rotors with the best ones you can the first time out.
Yes, there is one more part to keep in mind. You may or may not need to replace the brake calipers during your next brake job. Here are a few things to look out for:
-If the caliper is leaking, replace it.
-If the piston dust boot is torn, chances are you’ve already damaged the piston seal, so you’ll need to replace that, too.
-If the caliper isn’t leaking and the boots are intact, the caliper is probably good to go for your next brake pad replacement.
Sometimes the square cut “O” ring inside the caliper can harden and prevent the piston from retracting. This can cause uneven brake pad wear (the outboard pad wears faster than the inboard because the caliper can’t release pressure).
But, corroded pad slides and caliper pins can also cause uneven brake pad wear, and they’re much cheaper and easier to replace than a caliper, so try replacing those parts first. If you still have uneven pad wear, bite the bullet and buy a new caliper. Many semi-loaded calipers come complete with a rebuilt bracket (if equipped), caliper pins, pad slides, and new hose gaskets.